Corns in Dogs’ Paws: Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment

Written by Kate Austin | Furria Team
Updated on 08/29/2025

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace a professional veterinary examination, diagnosis, or treatment. If your dog is showing signs of corns in dogs paws, such as limping, discomfort, or lesions, seek advice from a qualified veterinarian promptly.

Introduction

Corns in dogs’ paws are a surprisingly common yet often misunderstood problem, particularly in breeds with thin paw pads such as greyhounds and whippets. These small, hardened growths can cause significant pain and lameness, but because they appear as circular, raised lesions, many owners mistake them for warts, tumours, or even lodged foreign objects. The confusion can delay proper treatment and leave a dog struggling with ongoing discomfort. Understanding what corns are, why they form, and how they differ from other paw issues is the first step towards helping your dog walk comfortably again.

What Are Corns in Dogs’ Paws?

Corns in dogs’ paws are localised areas of thickened, hardened skin that develop within the paw pad. Unlike the rough calluses that form on elbows or pressure points, these corns sit deep in the pad itself, creating a firm core that presses into the sensitive underlying tissue with every step. The result is often a sharp, stabbing pain rather than a dull irritation.

It is important not to confuse canine corns with the corns humans experience. In people, corns are usually a response to friction from footwear and form on the surface of the skin. In dogs, however, they are embedded within the pad and behave more like a stone trapped underfoot. This fundamental difference explains why dogs with paw corns often show sudden lameness or an unwillingness to walk on hard ground.

Corns are most frequently seen in greyhounds, whippets, lurchers and other sighthounds. These breeds have naturally thin paw pads with less fatty cushioning, making them particularly vulnerable to pressure lesions. While any dog can, in theory, develop a corn, the prevalence in these lean breeds is so high that many rescue organisations and breed-specific charities now consider corns a well-recognised welfare issue.

Which Dogs Are Most at Risk?

Although corns in dogs’ paws can appear in almost any breed, certain dogs are far more predisposed than others. Sighthounds such as greyhounds, whippets and lurchers top the list. Their paw pads are naturally thinner and less cushioned than those of heavier-built breeds, leaving the underlying tissue exposed to repeated pressure. In retired racing greyhounds this problem is especially well documented, as years of running on abrasive track surfaces create the perfect conditions for corns to develop.

Body structure also plays a role. Dogs with long, narrow feet or uneven weight distribution place extra stress on specific areas of the pad, making them more vulnerable. Overweight dogs face a different but equally significant challenge: excess body mass magnifies the pressure on each step, accelerating the formation of pressure lesions.

Activity levels matter as well. Highly active dogs that spend much of their time on hard pavements or rough terrain wear down their natural cushioning more quickly, while those recovering from an injury may shift their weight onto one paw, triggering abnormal pressure points and corns in that area. Even a poorly healed paw injury can change the gait just enough to spark repeated strain on a single pad.

External factors should not be overlooked. Constant exposure to hard flooring, lack of protective footwear on abrasive ground, and insufficient paw care all contribute to the risk. Internally, genetic predisposition is a key factor: many greyhounds will develop corns regardless of lifestyle, simply because their anatomy offers less natural defence.

Understanding these risk factors is crucial, because prevention is often easier than treatment. Identifying whether your dog falls into one of these categories can help you take proactive steps before painful corns become an entrenched problem.

Symptoms of Corns in Dogs’ Paws

The signs of corns in dogs’ paws are often subtle at first, but they quickly become hard to ignore as the condition progresses. Because the lesion sits inside the pad and presses into soft tissue, even a small corn can cause disproportionate pain. Owners who recognise the early clues can save their dog from weeks of discomfort.

The most common symptoms include:

Lameness or reluctance to walk – dogs with corns often limp, especially on hard surfaces such as tarmac or tiles. Many owners notice that the limp improves when walking on grass or carpet, where pressure is softer.
Excessive licking or chewing of the paw – a dog may repeatedly attend to one foot, signalling localised irritation or pain.
A visible, firm spot on the pad – typically a circular, dense area that may feel like a hard pebble embedded in the skin. The surface can look smooth or slightly raised, sometimes with a central core.
Change in gait – some dogs adjust their stride to avoid pressure, leading to awkward posture, uneven wear on nails, or even strain in other limbs.

It is important to distinguish corns from other paw issues. A small cut will usually heal within days and often bleeds or scabs, unlike a corn which remains hard and persistent. A foreign body such as glass or a thorn tends to cause sudden, acute pain, sometimes with swelling or discharge, whereas corns develop gradually. Viral warts (papillomas) may look similar but usually sit on the skin’s surface rather than deep inside the pad.

Because these differences are easy to miss, many dogs live with untreated corns for months under the assumption that the problem is something minor. If your dog shows repeated lameness with a consistent, firm lesion in the pad, a corn should always be considered as a likely cause.

What Causes Corns in Dogs’ Paws?

The exact cause of corns in dogs’ paws has been debated for decades, and it is likely that more than one factor is involved. What is clear is that a corn represents the body’s response to chronic pressure or irritation within the paw pad, though the underlying trigger may vary from one dog to another.

Mechanical pressure and friction
The most widely accepted cause is repeated pressure on a specific spot of the paw. Dogs with thin pads or bony feet concentrate their weight unevenly, so one part of the pad bears more impact than others. Over time, the skin hardens as a protective response, forming the dense core typical of a corn. Surfaces play a role too: regular walks on tarmac, concrete or tiles increase friction and accelerate the process.

Recurrent trauma
A past injury to the paw can alter how a dog distributes weight. For example, if a nail injury or joint problem shifts the gait, pressure builds up on one pad and a corn develops in that spot. Even subtle trauma such as repeated slipping on smooth floors may create micro-damage that, over months, evolves into a painful corn.

Viral infection theories
Some veterinary studies have suggested that viral papillomas might contribute to the formation of paw corns. The idea is that a viral wart could trigger abnormal skin growth, which then embeds itself within the pad. However, this remains controversial. Not all corns test positive for viral material, and many appear in dogs with no history of papillomas. For now, viral involvement is seen as a possible but unproven factor.

Genetic predisposition in sighthounds
Greyhounds, whippets and lurchers consistently top the risk list, even when raised on soft ground and with careful paw care. Their lean anatomy, reduced fatty cushioning and unique bone structure all contribute to abnormal weight distribution. Many specialists now view genetics as a primary driver: certain dogs are simply more prone to corns, no matter how carefully they are managed.

In practice, corns in dogs’ paws usually result from a combination of these influences. A genetically predisposed greyhound, walking daily on hard pavements after a minor paw injury, carries a much higher risk than a dog with thick pads and evenly spread weight. Recognising these contributing factors is key, because prevention often depends on addressing the root cause rather than just treating the corn itself.

How Are Corns Diagnosed?

Diagnosing corns in dogs’ paws is primarily a clinical exercise: a characteristic, firm, well-circumscribed lesion in the pad coupled with pain on direct pressure and a limp that improves on grass but worsens on hard ground.

What your vet will do

History & gait assessment: onset, surfaces that worsen/improve the limp, prior injuries. Many dogs with paw corns show a “stone-in-shoe” stride on tarmac but walk better on carpet.
Close pad inspection: clipping hair, cleaning the pad, then palpating the lesion. A corn typically sits centrally in a toe pad, feels like a hard pebble, and elicits a sharp pain when pressed (even with a blunt object like a pen cap).
Paring after soaking (in-clinic): careful superficial paring of softened keratin may reveal a central core; this helps confirm a corn versus a superficial callus. This is diagnostic, not definitive treatment.
Assess contributing factors: nail length, uneven wear, conformational issues, or a compensatory gait from another limb.

Key differentials your vet will rule out

Foreign body/puncture: sudden onset, focal swelling, discharge; often a visible entry point.
Papilloma (wart): sits on the skin surface or pedunculated rather than embedded within the pad.
Hyperkeratosis: diffuse, “horn-like” thickening across pads, not a single deep core.
Interdigital cysts/pododermatitis: inflammation between toes rather than in the centre of a pad.
Neoplasia (e.g., melanoma, SCC): irregular borders, bleeding, rapid change, may be less pressure-dependent.

When tests are used

Dermoscopy or magnified exam to visualise the central keratin plug.
Cytology & culture if there’s drainage or secondary infection.
Biopsy/histopathology for atypical lesions, non-sighthound cases, rapid growth, bleeding, or when findings don’t fit a classic corn.
Imaging (radiographs) if deep pain suggests bone involvement, or to evaluate orthopaedic causes of altered weight-bearing that could perpetuate pressure on one pad.

Red flags—seek a vet (or referral) promptly

Rapid enlargement, bleeding, ulceration, or multiple pads affected.
Severe, persistent lameness or non-weight-bearing.
Systemic unwellness (fever, lethargy), or recurrence despite appropriate care.
Diagnostic uncertainty—consider dermatology or orthopaedic referral, especially if your dog is not a sighthound yet shows a corn-like lesion.

Practical prep that speeds a confident diagnosis

Record a short video of the gait on hard vs soft surfaces.
Trim overlong nails beforehand (short, flat ends) but do not self-pare the lesion.
Avoid balms on the day of the exam (they mask texture).
Bring clear, close-up photos and note which surfaces or distances trigger the limp.

Getting the diagnosis right early matters: it prevents months of avoidable pain and guides the treatment plan beyond the lesion itself—towards the underlying pressure mechanics that keep dog paw corns coming back.

Treatment Options for Corns in Dogs’ Paws

Managing corns in dogs’ paws usually requires a two-pronged approach: easing the pain right away and reducing the pressure that caused the lesion in the first place. For many dogs, this means starting with conservative care and considering professional procedures if the problem persists.

Conservative management often begins with softening the pad. Short warm-water soaks followed by paw balms or mild urea-based creams can reduce the hardness and make the pad more flexible under pressure. Human corn plasters, especially those containing salicylic acid, should never be used, as they can burn the skin. Protective dog boots are another mainstay, particularly on hard pavements or tiles, as they cushion the affected pad and stop direct impact. Nail care is equally important: nails that are too long shift the dog’s weight onto the toe pads, worsening the corn. Owners who switch to walking mainly on grass or other forgiving surfaces usually see their dog more comfortable within days.

When conservative steps are not enough, veterinary treatment comes into play. Many vets start by carefully paring or “hulling” the corn, removing the central core and giving almost immediate relief. This is rarely curative, but it resets the problem so other measures can work. More advanced options include laser ablation, surgical excision or cryotherapy, each designed to destroy or remove the lesion more permanently. Results can vary, especially in greyhounds, and recurrence remains common if the underlying pressure mechanics are not corrected. In particularly stubborn cases, orthopaedic or reconstructive procedures may be suggested to redistribute weight across the paw.

After any procedure, strict aftercare is critical. The paw must be kept clean and dry, usually bandaged and protected with a waterproof boot outdoors. Dogs should be walked only on soft ground until healing is complete, and licking must be prevented to avoid infection. Follow-up appointments allow the vet to monitor regrowth and intervene early if the corn begins to return.

Unfortunately, recurrence is a well-recognised risk. Long-term control depends less on the single act of removing the corn and more on changing the conditions that caused it. Keeping nails short, maintaining a lean body weight, using protective boots on hard ground, and limiting exposure to abrasive surfaces can all make the difference between a dog that keeps redeveloping painful lesions and one that stays comfortable for years.

Home Remedies and Paw Care

Home care can make a marked difference to comfort, but it works best when it aims to reduce pressure and protect the pad, not to “dig out” the lesion. For many dogs—especially sighthounds—this supportive routine keeps walks possible while you and your vet manage corns in dogs’ paws more definitively.

Boots and socks, used properly. Well-fitted dog boots cushion impact on hard ground and stop direct grinding of the corn. Choose flexible, thin-soled boots (rubberised or neoprene) rather than stiff “hiking” styles that can chafe. A lightweight, breathable sock under the boot prevents rubbing and absorbs moisture; rotate two pairs so one can fully dry. Start with short walks on forgiving surfaces to check for slippage or pressure points. Indoors, runners or yoga mats on slippery floors reduce micro-slips that keep re-injuring the pad.

Soften, don’t strip. A simple routine—brief warm-water soaks, thorough drying (including between toes), then a paw balm—keeps the pad supple so it deforms rather than bruises with each step. Look for vet-approved balms or low-strength urea creams (around 10–20% urea) designed for pets. Avoid human corn plasters (salicylic acid) and “strong keratolytics”: they commonly burn canine pads. Natural oils can help as part of a barrier (e.g., beeswax-based balms with a little shea/coconut), but pure essential oils are a non-starter; tea tree and others can be toxic if licked.

Pumice and gentle filing—if at all, and only around the lesion. Lightly smoothing the surrounding rough pad can reduce edge friction, but the corn itself should not be aggressively filed. If your dog flinches, if you see pink tissue, or if the surface becomes weepy, stop immediately. Never use rotary tools on the corn; they remove control and heat the tissue.

Nails and load sharing. Short, well-shaped nails change the physics of the step. When nails are long, the toes “peck” the ground and force weight onto the same painful spot. A weekly mini-trim or Dremel (on the nails, not the pad) helps redistribute load. Keep body weight lean; every extra kilo magnifies pad pressure.

Surface strategy. Make soft ground your default—grass, rubber, compacted dirt—and limit long pavement walks. If city pavements are unavoidable, combine short distances with boots and plan rest stops. After walks, rinse grit off the pad and dry well; trapped moisture macerates skin and worsens soreness.

When home care is the wrong tool. Skip DIY and book a vet visit if any of the following apply: rapid growth, bleeding or ulceration; marked lameness or non-weight-bearing; swelling or discharge (possible foreign body or infection); multiple pads affected; recurrence soon after prior treatment; or a corn-like lesion in a non-sighthound where the diagnosis is less typical. Diabetic, immunocompromised, or allergy-prone dogs also need veterinary-led plans rather than home experiments.

Used consistently, these measures buy comfort and cut down flare-ups. They won’t “cure” dog paw corns on their own, but they reduce day-to-day pain and make any veterinary treatment far more likely to last.

Preventing Corns in Dogs’ Paws

Prevention is mostly physics: manage load on the pad, build pad resilience, and catch small changes early. Done well, these habits cut the risk of corns in dogs’ paws and lengthen the pain-free gaps between any recurrences.

Choose footwear that actually protects, not rubs. Go for flexible, thin-soled boots (rubberised/neoprene) that bend with the paw. Do a two-finger cuff test (snug but not squeezing), add a breathable liner sock to prevent chafe, and break them in with short grass walks before hitting pavement. Rotate pairs so everything dries fully; damp boots macerate pads and invite problems.

Keep nails short to change the maths of each step. Nails that “click” on floors shift weight forward onto toe pads—the very spot corns form. Aim for nails just off the ground when the dog stands. A weekly micro-trim or gentle Dremel on the nails (not the pad) maintains even, pressure-friendly contact.

Hold a lean body condition. Every excess kilo magnifies ground reaction force. You should feel ribs with light pressure, see a clear waist from above, and an abdominal tuck from the side. Measure meals, use high-value food for training (not extra on top), and bias exercise to soft surfaces or swimming to spare pads while improving fitness.

Plan surfaces, not just distances. Make grass, rubber tracks and compact dirt your default; keep long pavement treks for when boots are on. Avoid cambered roads that tilt the paw and overload one toe. At home, lay runners or yoga mats across slippery routes (hallway, kitchen) to stop micro-slips that repeatedly jab the same pad.

Run a 60-second post-walk paw check. Rinse off grit and salt, blot dry (including between toes), then inspect the centre of each toe pad for a small, hard, circular spot. Note any flinch on thumb-press. Logging when and where discomfort appears (surface, distance) helps you spot patterns before a lesion beds in.

Condition, don’t strip, the pad. Use a light, pet-safe balm or low-strength urea cream (around 10–20%) a few evenings per week to keep pads supple so they deform rather than bruise. Skip strong keratolytics and human corn plasters—salicylic acid burns canine skin. In winter, rinse off road salt; in summer, test tarmac with your palm—if it’s too hot for you, it’s too hot for pads.

Tidy gait and symmetry. Small physio routines—slow figure-8s, controlled turns, short cavaletti at walking pace—encourage even loading and better paw placement. If your dog recently injured another limb, assume they’re compensating; shorten walks and use boots until the gait normalises.

Act early when something feels “off.” A day or two of pavements causing a limp, a firm spot that wasn’t there last week, or repeated licking of one toe pad—these are your cues to scale back hard surfaces, use boots, and book a vet check before a true corn establishes.

Preventing dog paw corns isn’t about a single hack; it’s the sum of small, consistent decisions—fit boots, lean weight, quiet nails, soft surfaces, quick checks—that keep pressure where it belongs and pain where it doesn’t.

Living with a Dog That Has Paw Corns

Life doesn’t have to shrink because of corns in dogs’ paws; it just needs smarter planning. Your job is to control pressure, pace and surfaces so your dog can move comfortably without constantly re-injuring the same spot.

Walks, rethought. Swap long, brisk pavement treks for shorter, more frequent outings on forgiving ground. Ten minutes on grass, twice or three times a day, often beats a single 40-minute march on tarmac. If you must use pavement, make boots non-negotiable and plot “soft-surface islands” (park verges, rubberised paths) into the route. Walk straight lines more than tight circles; repeated sharp turns load one toe pad.

Reduce pain without losing joy. Warm up for two minutes at a slow walk before any quicker pace; cool down the same way. Keep nails impeccably short—this alone can transform comfort. Indoors, run non-slip mats along high-traffic lanes so micro-slips don’t keep jabbing the pad. On flare days, trade distance for enrichment: food puzzles, scent games and clicker drills tire the brain without pounding the feet. If your vet has prescribed analgesia, use it proactively before planned activity, not after the limp appears.

Make boots work for you, not against you. Choose flexible, thin-soled boots that bend with the paw; add a breathable liner sock to prevent rub. Break them in on grass for a week before city pavements. Rotate two pairs so one is always dry; damp fabric macerates pads. Many owners find a “one-boot strategy” helpful—boot only the affected foot on easy grass to encourage even gait while still protecting the sore pad.

Log patterns; adjust early. Keep a simple diary: surface, distance, boots (yes/no), and a 0–10 comfort score an hour after the walk. Two low scores in a row? Drop distances, switch to softer routes and book a re-check for maintenance paring before pain snowballs. Video a 10-second straight-line walk on grass vs pavement every fortnight; small gait changes are easier to spot on screen than by eye.

Home set-up that quietly helps. Place the bed where the dog doesn’t have to navigate slick floors to reach water or the garden. Use a ramp into the car rather than jumping. Trim feathering between pads so grit doesn’t build; rinse and dry feet after mucky walks, then apply a light, pet-safe balm in the evening to keep pads supple.

What owners report in practice. Ex-racers often do best on a “little-and-often” schedule with grass as the default and planned vet paring every 6–8 weeks. Urban lurchers manage city life by wearing boots for all pavement segments and taking stairwells slowly on a lead. Whippets with recurrent lesions stay comfortable long-term when nails are kept so short they barely “think” about touching the ground and when summer routes avoid hot, abrasive paths entirely.

Set a flare protocol. Agree with your vet what to do at the first sign of trouble: switch to grass-only walks, boots outside, strict no-lick (cone if needed), balm at night, and a prompt appointment for assessment or gentle de-bulking. Acting within 24–48 hours can turn a blip into a non-event instead of a month-long setback.

With a few disciplined habits—soft surfaces, short nails, sensible boots, quick course-corrections—dogs with paw corns can keep their routines, their fitness and their good mood. Your consistency is the treatment that never wears off.

When to See a Vet Immediately

Most corns in dogs’ paws can be managed with routine care and scheduled check-ups, but there are situations where waiting is the wrong move. Knowing the red flags saves time, pain and, in some cases, prevents secondary complications that are far harder to treat.

If your dog suddenly shifts from a mild limp to severe or persistent lameness, especially if they begin to avoid weight-bearing altogether, it is time to seek professional help. A corn that has broken down into the deeper tissue may cause acute pain similar to standing on a stone with every step. This level of discomfort rarely improves on its own and requires veterinary intervention.

Visible inflammation, swelling or bleeding from the pad is another warning sign. A simple corn does not usually bleed; if it does, the lesion may have cracked, ulcerated or become infected. Infection inside a paw pad is particularly painful and can spread, creating abscesses that mimic or mask the original corn.

Recurrent corns also deserve prompt attention. If you pare the lesion, use protective boots and still see the corn return within weeks, it suggests an underlying mechanical or orthopaedic issue. Vets can reassess gait, check for compensatory injuries or, if necessary, recommend more advanced treatments such as laser ablation or reconstructive surgery.

Do not ignore a corn that does not respond to typical care. A firm lesion that keeps growing, changes colour, or alters rapidly in shape is not behaving like a classic corn and must be checked to rule out other conditions such as papillomas or, in rare cases, malignant tumours.

Other reasons to call the vet straight away include:

A corn appearing in a non-sighthound, where diagnosis is less straightforward.
Multiple pads developing lesions at once.
Any sign of systemic illness—lethargy, fever, loss of appetite—alongside paw pain.

In practice, most owners rely on one simple rule: if the limp worsens rather than improves within a week, or if the corn looks different from the last time you checked, book a veterinary appointment immediately. Acting quickly not only eases suffering but can prevent a small lesion from becoming a long-term, debilitating problem.

Related Conditions Often Confused with Corns

Not every hard spot on a paw pad is a corn. Several other conditions can look similar but behave very differently, and mistaking them delays the right treatment.

Paw pad tumours such as melanoma or squamous cell carcinoma may begin as firm, raised lesions. Unlike corns, they often change shape quickly, may bleed, and do not ease when pressure is relieved by walking on softer ground. Any lesion that grows unpredictably or ulcerates should be biopsied rather than assumed to be a corn.

Foreign bodies like thorns, glass shards or grit can embed in the pad and create a hard nodule that mimics a corn. These usually cause sudden, sharp lameness and may be accompanied by swelling, redness or discharge. Unlike corns, removing the object generally solves the problem immediately.

Fungal infections occasionally cause thickened, keratinised patches on the pads. These are less well-defined than a true corn and are often itchy rather than sharply painful. They may spread to multiple pads or show scaling and cracking rather than a central, stone-like core.

Because these conditions overlap in appearance, any persistent lesion should be checked by a vet. What looks like a straightforward case of corns in dogs’ paws may in fact be something more complex, and early distinction makes all the difference in treatment and prognosis.

FAQ Section

Can corns in dogs’ paws go away on their own?
Rarely. A true corn does not usually disappear without intervention because the hardened core continues to press into the soft tissue. Some dogs adapt by shifting their weight, which may make the limp seem better for a while, but the lesion itself remains. Without trimming, paring, or protective management, the corn tends to worsen over time.

Are corns painful for dogs?
Yes. Even a small corn can feel like walking with a stone stuck in the shoe. Dogs may limp, avoid hard surfaces, or constantly lick the affected paw. The pain is sharp rather than dull, and many owners notice their dog is perfectly sound on grass but struggles on pavement or tiles.

How do I know if it’s a corn or something else?
A corn is typically a firm, circular, well-defined lesion that sits in the centre of a pad and elicits pain when pressed. Cuts or punctures usually bleed, papillomas sit on the surface, and foreign bodies cause sudden, swollen pain. If you are unsure, take a short video of your dog walking on different surfaces and show it to your vet along with a close-up photo of the pad.

Do dog boots actually help with corns?
They do—if chosen well. Flexible, thin-soled boots reduce the direct pressure that drives pain. They should be snug but not tight, with a breathable liner sock underneath to stop rubbing. Boots are particularly useful for pavement walks but should be introduced gradually to prevent awkward gait or slippage.

Can corns in dogs’ paws be permanently cured?
In some cases, yes, but recurrence is common. Surgical removal or laser ablation can give lasting relief, but if the underlying pressure mechanics remain—long nails, thin pads, excess weight, or constant pavement walking—the corn often returns. The most reliable “cure” is a combination of veterinary treatment and lifelong management: soft surfaces, regular nail care, protective boots, and keeping body weight lean.

Should I try home remedies first?
Supportive care such as balm, boots and nail trimming is useful, but do not attempt to cut or burn out the lesion at home. Human corn plasters are unsafe for dogs and can make the pad raw. If pain is obvious or the lesion grows, the safest step is a veterinary visit, ideally with a vet experienced in treating sighthounds.

Final Thoughts

Corns in dogs’ paws are deceptively small but disproportionately painful. They rarely vanish on their own, and managing them well means thinking beyond the lesion itself. A quick paring may bring relief, but long-term success comes from consistent nail care, lean body weight, soft surfaces and properly fitted boots. Owners who log patterns—when the limp appears, on what ground, how quickly it worsens—spot problems earlier and save their dogs weeks of discomfort.

The most important step is not to normalise lameness. If your dog repeatedly struggles on hard ground, assume pain until proven otherwise and involve a vet early. Corns can be controlled, but only if treated as part of the dog’s wider lifestyle, not as an isolated blemish. When prevention and treatment work together, dogs return to comfortable, confident movement, and that is the only true measure of success.